What is it?
NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum
Star ingredients Possible Acne trigger/not so good ingredients
Aqua (Water), Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Pentylene Glycol, Copper Tripeptide-1, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, PPG-26 Buteth-26, PEG40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol.
I don’t see any ingredients that cause for concern here. It’s also clean when checked with cosdna.com
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer: It’s derived from hyaluronic acid. HA has an unique ability to bind and retain water. “It’s water-binding and fills up the spaces between the connective fibers collagen and elastin in the dermis”. Therefore, in many studies topical application of LMWHA (low molecular weight HA) was demonstrated to improve skin moisturization and elasticity associated with significant reduction of wrinkle depth. HA is widely available in our body but decreasing rapidly as we aged.
Ethoxydiglycol: is a synthetic solvent with a low molecular weight. It helps dissolve and lower the viscosity of the products, making it thinner so it’s easier to absorb into our skin.
Pentylene Glycol: a solvent, with humectant and skin conditioning properties, can also serve as preservative. It’s low molecular weight therefore it can be absorb fast.
Copper Tripeptide-1: glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine copper cuprate, diacetate (GHK-Cu). Copper is an essential trace element important for many biological processes (hemoglobin synthesis, enzyme activation…). It is a key factor in the production of collagen and elastin. Its anti-inflammatory activity is well documented.
“Acute or chronic inflammation induces a net increase of total copper in blood, synovial fluid and inflamed areas, mobilized from endogenous stores. Chronic inflammation may lead to depletion of copper stores, implying the need for exogenous copper supply in order to effectively cope with the inflammatory pathologies. While copper complexes are commonly administered by injection, the Anti-inflammatory activity of subcutaneous administration of copper complexes in animals was also shown to be proportional to total amount of copper injected”
Studies showed that topical organic copper complex such as GHK-Cu may potentially providing a skin reservoir of copper to become available over time. They also shown that GHK-Cu is readily permeate skin barrier.
Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3: skin conditioning, a peptide that mimics retinoic acid (vitamin A) to increase cell turnover and collagen synthesis without causing negative side effects, such as irritation and stinging.
PPG-26 Buteth-26: it is a conditioning agent, reduce flaking and skin dryness, increase suppleness. According to International Journal of Toxicology PPG-26-Buteth-26 produced no skin irritation or sensitization and is considered safe to be use in cosmetics products.
PEG40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: derived from castor oil, an emulsifier, it’s not readily absorb by skin with the molecular weight of 40. EWG noticed the possibility of contamination with impurities.
“A dermal irritation test performed in mice concluded that a formulation containing 20% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil would probably not irritate human skin. A study of the dermal irritancy potential of a microemulsion gel system in rats concluded that the test formulation containing 20.66% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil was not a skin irritant.”
“The CIR Expert Panel concluded that the 130 PEGylated oil ingredients listed subsequently are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics when formulated to be non irritating.”
Ethylhexylglycerin: a synthetic compound derived from grains and plants. It’s serves as an emollient solvent and weak preservative. It’s often used as an alternative to parabens. It’s a weak allergen. Since ethylhexylglycerin is listed almost at the end of the ingredient list, the percentage is very minimal. You probably won’t get any irritation from it.
Chlorphenesin: a preservative. “It is used at concentrations up to 0.32% in rinse-off products and up to 0.3% in leave-on products. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) noted that chlorphenesin was well absorbed when applied to the skin of rats; however, any safety concern was minimized because available data demonstrated an absence of toxicity. The Panel concluded that chlorphenesin is safe in the present practices of use and concentration.”
Phenoxythanol: a preservative alternative to parabens. It’s approved to use at <1%.
“Undiluted Phenoxyethanol was a strong eye irritant, but was non irritating when tested at 2.2%. Phenoxyethanol at 2.0% was a slight irritant to rabbit skin, but was neither an irritant nor sensitizer to guinea pig skin. In dermal treatment studies, Phenoxyethanol was neither teratogenic, embryotoxic, or fetotoxic at doses which were maternally toxic. Phenoxyethanol was non mutagenic in the Ames test, with and without metabolic activation, and in the mouse micronucleus test. In clinical studies, Phenoxyethanol was neither a primary irritant nor sensitizer. Phenoxyethanol was not phototoxic in clinical studies. It is concluded that Phenoxyethanol is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration.”
Who is it for?
- Any one who want healthier skin.
- Who doesn’t mind synthetic products.
- I know some of you might have problems with some of the ingredients in this product but those ingredients only cause harm if exceed the allowance dose. Everything will be problematic if use at toxic level; water is as safe as it can be but if you drink too much you will have problem too! So for instance in this product Chlorphenesin can be use up to 0.3% and it listed before Phenoxythanol, so that means Phenoxythanol can only be at 0.3% or below.
How do you use it?
- CAIS should be use right after clean; give it atleast 10 sec before moving on.
- If you use acid cleanser or acid toner before CAIS then you need to wait at least 30 min before putting on CAIS since CAIS will be destroyed by any trace of acid per Deciem.
- You can put CAIS on right after cleaning and allow it to absorb for 30 sec then use your acid toner and the rest of your products.
There is a very informative QA with Brandon from Deciem on Caroline’s blog. You should check it out! http://www.carolinehirons.com/2015/12/a-guide-to-niod.html
- CAIS is blue color and very light just like water. So the way I applied it is tilling my face up, with one hand squeeze a drop straight on my face but don’t let the tip touching your skin! (you don’t want yucky things start growing in your bottle :/) and smooth it out with the other hand. Repeat for other area of faces. Your skin will feel slightly tacky and smell faintly of vinegar but within 10s it will be absorbed and your skin will be so smooth!
- I use CAIS for my eyelid and under eye area also.
- I did a post on my instagram for how to mix CAIS if you’re curious 😉
Price & where to buy?
- You can buy this from Deciem website for $60 for 15ml or $90 for 30ml.
- Right now they’re having a promotion for 20% off with code ‘yearofthemonkey’ good until 2/21/2016. You can try the smaller size first to see if you like it 🙂
My skin looks so much better, more brighter, even toned! I used to have pinkish skin tone from all the PIH but now they’re slowly fade away. This works better than Vitamin C and all the acid toners I had tried minus all the inflammation baggage associated with those! I saw better results when I incorporated MMHC with CAIS. My skin was in a bad shape so I can see a drastic improvement. If you have healthy skin right now, you might not see any change 🙂 but with continue use it will just aid in your skin health in the long run. Also, I noticed the anti-inflammation effect with CAIS. I had some pimples and with CAIS, the pimples came to white head, dried and fell off faster. No squeezing necessary to get the head out. The PIH area is much smaller!
Worth repurchase? Yes for me! I reorder both CAIS and MMHC in full size 🙂 If synthetic products are not your jam then don’t use it 🙂 it’s all base on personal preference.
Have you tried CAIS yet? What are your thoughts?
Ethylhexylglycerin—a Contact Allergen in Cosmetic Products by Andersen, Klaus E. MD, PhD